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News Headlines
Chris Webb has sent the Wheel of Life V16 - see his 8a.nu scorecard! Respect!
Mick Wells has this month sent both TAO and Butchers at the Bachelor Pad
Chris Webb has in 2007 sent Perplex City V12 at Mt York, Live to a new Bet V12 at Nowra, Contact RHV V12 at the Villas, the first ascent of Shoosh V11 at the Villas and flashed Gage Wolf V10 at Mt York. Chris in November last year sent Pretty Hate Machine V14 in the Gramps.
Thomas Farrell recently made the 3rd ascent of Genesis V13 at Crumbly as well as The Vineyard, Mushi brain and Combat Wombat all V11.
Chris Webb has been super busy in recent months. Continuing his recent good form back in the Gramps he sent When we were Kings V11 (2nd go), American Pie V11, Kings Cross V12 (2nd go) and Sleepyman V13. Back in Sydney he sent the third ascent of The Pusher V13 at the Wing Cave. Today in Sydney he sent Tyler Durdan V12 (thought V11).James Kassay has also been in the Gramps sending Sleepy Man V13, Forced Entry V12, When we were Kings V11, a flash of Cruise Control V11 and at the newish area The Tower the FA of a V12 and a repeat of an 11.
Chris Webb has opened a new problem called Worm at Lot 33 in Nowra - its V14 and is a left traverse start into Joe Joe Dynamite V9 (see Lot 33 online guide). Could be the hardest problem in the East? Chris also recently repeated Fuel V11 at the Furnace in Nowra.
Chris Webb has done Ammagamma V13, Forced Entry V12, Lost for Life V12 and Dead Heat V11 in recent times.
Sharik Walker has made the long awaited 2nd ascent of the Dave Kellerman Crumbly problem Genesis V13 - the cold conditions helped!
Sharik Walker has done Drawback at Nowra and reckons it comes in around V12.
Sharik Walker has done the old yet new classic Turbo Guns V10 at Nowra and Garth Miller has flashed the Raven Tor classic Staminaband V11 over in the UK! Chris Webb has repeated Garth's V12 Motor Pussy in the Blue Mountains
Sharik Walker yesterday did Special Delivery V12 at Nowra and from a while back Garth Miller has been sending some things including Contact V12 and a couple of V12 FA's out in the mountains.
Chris Webb has done Mad Max V11 and Sleepy Hollow V12 to start 2006.
Sharik Walker on Sunday sent Matts Problem V12 and Garths Arete V11 at 4X in the Mountains, Phil Sage also did Garths Arete.
Sharik Walker has done a new link up at Fox Cave - Grimacing plus Agent Orange - its called Double Dragon and is V12.
Sharik Walker has done Agent Orange V12 (w/out the glued hold). Sharik would come in at no 10 on the current global bouldering ranking on 8a.nu.
Sharik Walker sent Last Action Hiro V13 on a quick trip to the Gramps recently.
Grampians/Sydney/Blue Mountains news
Dean Orange let us know a while back that Chris Webb sent J1 V13 and Abacus V12 in a weekend and Gandulf the Grey V13 in under an hour out at Armidale. James Kassay has also sent Contact V12
Grampians/Sydney/Blue Mountains news
Dean Orange is organising a slide show/movie night soon in Katoomba and Syndey - check out the flyer.
Grampians/Sydney/Blue Mountains news
Sharik Walker has opened another newie - this ones at the Fear Factory is called Blackboard and goes at about 11 or 12 and according to Sharik is a classic 20 degree wall. Chris Webb according to 8a.nu has done Eve Reve in the Gramps interestingly placed in his scorecard as V12.
Grampians/Sydney/Blue Mountains news
Sharik Walker has opened another new problem in Sydney today this time at Project Wall. The problem is V12ish is called Manhattan and is 3 stars! Ben Cossey according to 8a.nu went to the Villas yesterday. He sent Contact V12 which he thought was V11 and Hairy Joes Bannana Shack V11 which he thought was V9.
Samantha Berry has continued to represent Australia in overseas comps. She recently won the Asian X Games and has competed in 2 world cup events (Birmingham and Italy) finishing 11th and 20th.
Grampians/Sydney/Blue Mountains news
James Kassay has repeated Last Action Hiro V13 at Project Wall in the Grampians and Sharik Walker has in a day sent the Corridor Project (Nicole/O'Neill) at Frontline at the Balkans calling it "The Corridor" and giving it V12. Chris Webb has also sent the V11 arete at 4X in the Blue Mountains and flashed a V10 also at 4X.
Sharik Walker has now done Abacus V12 and Mushi Brain V11 at Crumbly and Silent Bob V10 at Sissy.
Sharik Walker sent Tyler Durdan V12 at the Den on Sunday and established Buge with Cheese Regurgitated V10 at Sissy.
Sharik Walker has now relocated to Sydney and has made the 2nd ascent of Joe Hoggson's Two Hands V13 @ Bonnet Bay and the first ascent of Nina Blue Eyes V9 at the Wall.
Sharik Walker is back in Oz and spent some time in the Gramps recently. He managed to boulder Lost for Life V12, Stuck South of the Border V13, the 2nd ascent of James Kassay's new problem in the cave (the Body F..K project) now called Stimulation V13 and his favourite Ammagamma V13.
James Kassay has repeated Cave Bitch V12, the Sleepy Hollow and Cave Man linkup @ V13 and FAed a new V13 back in December.
Chris Ellis "That problem I did called Ether is, well, harder than any 8A+ I have done... it's a small roof problem where tension is a big playa because it's only about a meter above the ground in one spot."
Sharik Walker has been getting in to a bit of double digit action in NZ in recent times with some hard sends at Froggatt Edge. Check out www.cactusclimbing.co.nz/powerband for the news and the cover photo.
An update from Townsville developer Madoc Sheehan : I've got a bit of TNS news 'cause Steve Baskerville has been feeling pretty strong of late. He put up two new V9's: Yosemite Dyno (see and download picture http://www.pbase.com/image/18199652) near the Misty Place and The Influx, a crimpy sitstart on the Happy Boulder. Harvey's is now pushing the 1000 problems mark and with the reef nearby is becoming a popular destination for international visitors.
An update on what James Litz did on his trip to Oz. He repeated Ammagamma V13, Gandalf the Grey (Armidale) V13, Last Action Hiro V13, Death of a God V13 (FA?), Mana V12/13, Lost for Life V12 and Kings Cross V12.
Nathan Hoette has repeated Ammagamma V13 and Kings Cross V12.
Vince Day has repeated Contact V12 at the Villas. Also unreported from Dai's trip was his sitstart to Lost for Life at V13/14! .
Chris Webb has repeated The Vineyard at V11, Mr Winston V10 and flashed American Siege V10 at the Balkans. Chris a while back also FAed Stargate Pumper V11 at Nowra and did a new v10 roof at Wingecaribee. Vince Day has done Myology v12 and flashed Garths arete RH variant at 4X in the Blue Mountains.
Richard Dale(NZ) on 5 June repeated Forced Entry extension. Sticky thinks the grade is probably V12/13 and for the original V12.
Alison Wong reports that Sticky has sent Forced Entry V13 at Andersons in the Gramps.
Reto Hartmann writes "I just wanted to update you that Anne (Gray) just did her first 8A (V11) boulder problem this weekend Tora Bora is at Massongex, Switzerland and is an 8 move roof problem. Hers was the 4th ascent of this problem."
Also Crell Ellis has been doing some stuff in Sweden including KGB assis V12 FA and repeats of Superkraft and Born a Lion both V11.
The latest from the Grampians by Alison Wong - Team Japan are at the end of their 50 day stay in the Grampians. Dai, Hiro and So have confirmed the grades of numerous hard, and not-so-hard problems of the area. Many new lines and link-ups have succumbed to their talent ranging from Bung Beetle V4 to The Wheel of Life V16.
New to the Grampians are team America. In the last week there have been repeats of Lost for Life, Ammagamma, and Forced Entry (flashed by James Litz!). More strong Americans are yet to arrive in the next week, so wait for more news.
Holding up the local flag, New Zealander Richard Sticky Dale has sent a new V13 Stuck South of the Border at Hollow Mountain Cave. This assent occurred after finding the start holds covered in candle wax and the edges knocked off with a rock! (Bushwalkers camping out in the cave???) This new line starts at the Body F#%k project holds and goes straight into the crux of Sleepy Hollow and finishes the same.
With large numbers of boulderers staying at Mt Staplyton campground the area has seen some significant damage to vegetation- trees we have all walked around for years have been broken down to make a straight path. Please be considerate everyone.
Dai Koyamada(Japan) has done the Hollow Mountain Cave linkup at V16 its called The Wheel of Life - thanks to 8a.nu.
Thanks to Alison Wong for the latest update - Team Japan is still pumping away in the Grampians. Soichi Niimi) has made an ascent of Sleepy Hollow, V12, Hirotaro Hoshina) has added Under Seige and Pretty Hate Machine, hard varient, V14/15 to his Eve Reve send and Dai Koyamada has done a new V11 traverse at the Citadel and Mana, V13, at the newly developed "project wall". Dai's comment on the whole cave link up- "It's not bouldering!!"
Alison Wong has given us the goss on all that is happening in the Grampians.
Dai Koyamada is ripping it up in the cave. He and a couple of friends have come for a 50 day trip with the aim to complete the whole cave link up. Dai has been able to confirm the grades of the harder problems around the Grampians, ensuring that we really are in line with the rest of the world. Dai has systematically been ticking off 12s in a day, then going back a second day to do link ups. He has chosen to do the easier Cave Girl instead of Cave Man for all link ups.
Dai's tick list to date
Sleepy Hollow + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance = Sleepy Rave V15 (three days)
Pretty Hate Machine with Eve Reve finish V14/15
Pretty Hate Machine V14
Xtreme cool + Amazing Sounds V14
Eve Reve V14
Under Seige V14
Cave Rave V13/14
Forced Entry Extension V13/14
Forced Entry V13
Forced Enrty Direct
Sleepy Hollow + Cave Girl = Sleepy Man V13
Ammagamma V13
Lost For Life V12
+ Others including a new V11 to the left of Hot Henry at Loopys
One of Dai's friends (will find out how to spell his name) has also sent Cave Rave.
Ben Cossy has been spending some time at Hollow Mt sending Eve Reve.
Victorian Phil Blunsom has sent Cave Bitch V12.
Al Price has sent one of the projects at Hollow Mt Cave calling it American Pie and giving it V11. It features a committing double handed dyno to the top! Christina Beddard has done Annagramma after the heartbreak of coming off the final move last year.
And me, well, I managed to get up to Hollow Mt Cave on crutches after having my knee reconstructed four weeks ago. It'll probably be a year before I'm climbing again. This follows Sticky's bad luck of being hospitalised early March and is olny just regaining strength.
Dai Koyamada(Japan) is currently resident in the Grmapians and has been absolutely ripping it up. Here is a bit of list of what he as done in the short time he has been there : Sleepy Hollow V12, Cave Bitch V12, Dead Cant Dance V12, The Amazing Sounds... V12, Sleepy Hollow + Cave Man V13, Under Siege V14, Cave Rave V13, Eve Reve V14, Forced Entry V13, X-treme Cool + Amazing Sounds V13/14, Pretty Hate Machine V14, Yet to Come V15 - FA linkup of Sleepy Hollow and Cave Rave, Ammagamma V13 and Lost for Life V12.
Chris Ellis has been on a euro roadtrip recently and sent the following at Font Hibernatus sitstart 8a, T Rex sit 8a, Saut de Puce 8a and De Vita Beata and back in Sweden he did Outbush Gangstaz 8a.
Richard Dale(NZ) has had another good weekend in the gramps sending Caved Out V11 in the cave and is close to getting Forced Entry V13. Also Alison Wong sent Gourmetcat V8 at the campground and the big roof V8 at the back of the 45 degree wall at Andersons.
Richard Dale(NZ) has now also sent Lost for Life V12 at the Citadel. Also in the Gramps Sharik Walker has added a new V8 in the cave above the Hollow Mountain Bloc.
Richard Dale(NZ) has sent Amazing Sounds V12.
Chris Webb has done Myology V12.
Chris Ellis has been on a euro roadtrip recently and sent the following Massive Attack 8a+ and Octopussy 8a at Magic Wood, La Balance sans chip 8a at Font and also flashed a couple of 7c+'s in Tessino including the classic La Grotte des soupir.
Nathan Hoette has sent Killer Dwarf V11 and Gobsmacker V10 in the Gramps.
Chris Ellis has been sending again in Sweden i.e. the slap story V10, a place for my head V10 and easy V10.
Sharik Walker recently sent the Westwood classic Steve Austin V10 at Sissy Crag
Matt Adams has flashed Blacker Magic V9 at Crumbly as did Chris Webb who also sent Mushi Brain V11 3rd shot on the same day.
James Scarborough has been busy of late - last week he did a new problem at the Balkans to the left of American Seige, called Daoism and is around-about V10. James also says that there has been some blocing down at Bungonia Gorge and on Thursday he fired a project called The Sandman, it's an 8B bloc overhanging fridge slapper,consisting of 8 slappy moves on spoogey river polished limestone, a definite three star classic.
Sharik Walker finished a new problem at Andersons earlier this week. Its called Forced Entry and is graded V13. It can be found in the guides section of this website and is problem no 43 at Andersons (45 degree wall). Sharik also made the 2nd ascent (sort of) of Klem Loskots Loopy's traverse Panoptikum V11 but finished up Bitch Slap instead of Winterkirsch.
Chris Webb has sent his 2nd V12 of the year with the 3rd ascent of Special Delivery at Nowra on the weekend. Chris also recently added Bow You Bastards V11 at Pierces Creek in Canberra.
Matt Adams has repeated American Siege V10 and Rocket Man V9 at the Balkans.
Sam Berry finished 5th in the latest round of the Bouldering World Cup season in L'Argentiere. After just missing out on the finals in the last event Sam qualified in the top 12 and then beat out some quality opposition to place 5th behind the winner Sandrine Levet. This is by far the best finish by an Aussie in a World Cup event to date!
Ben Cossey has repeated Il Globo V11,Vampire Dagger V11 and Pinch Me V10 at Mt Yarrowick. His brother Lee repeated L'Envers du Decor V11
Simon McDonald has repeated Mushi Brain V11 at Crumbly and Al Pryce has also repeated the recently added right handed variant finish to Contact which he thought was V12.
Sam Berry is in Europe for the UIAA Bouldering World Cup season. Sam finished 29th in the 3rd round at Lecco and yesterday finished 1 spot out of the finals in 13th place at the World Championships in Chamonix.
Matt Adams has sent Cave Man V10 and Annagramma in the Hollow Mountain Cave.
At Nowra Sharik Walker has repeated Klockwork Orange V11, and in Sydney repeated Mr Winston V10 and flashed 2 V9 problems at Queens Park, Piranha and Pauls Roof. Al Pryce has also done American Siege V10.
James Kassay has sent the 2nd ascent of Sharik Walker's The Amazing Sounds ... V12 in the Hollow Mountain Cave.
Joe Hoggson has done a variant finish to Contact V12 that may be a grade harder and has finished a long term term project at Bonnet Bay (grade 13?). Nathan Hoette has sent La Homme Obu V11. Sharik Walker and Cam Taylor have repeated Pauls Present V10 at the Villas. Cam also made the first ascents (at a new cave in the area) of Shockproof Erection V7, Weather Predicting Nipple Hair V8, and Come Get Some V9 .
Chris Webb had a great 30 minute session at Nowra yesterday with sends of I want to be a pumper V9 (2nd shot) Klockwork Orange V11 (2nd shot) and Nappy Nugets V8.
Al Price has sent in the Grampians and Sydney recently with repeats of Sleep Hollow V12, Tyler Durdan V12, Dead Can't Dance V11, Mad Max V11, Viva Resistance V11, L'Homme Obu V11 and Groove Terminator V10.
Vince Day reports "campbell godfrey (tas boy) repeated the robinson classic 'buzzyland' which is probably around v8 at the newly developed 'island' at oatlands, also done by myself is pungi, a 3 move sloping ledge which is around v7, there are also a number of wicked problems in the v2 to v6 range all on quality rock. chris webb of canberra sent the antichrist traverse v10. i managed to send possibly the 3rd ascent of groove train v10 and kung fu fighting v9, al williams and john nermet have been developing many fine easy classics, the best being chocolate eclair a 6 metre arete which goes at the lowely grade of v3, but fuck u have to try this thing!!! it is wicked!!"
Reto Hartmann reports that Anne Gray (now living in Switzerland) sent Monte Bello 7C+ (V10) at Massongex, Switzerland. Pretty impressive considering she is recovering from serious surgery late last year and that she's 41 years of age!!!! Note: Age mentioned with permission :)
Unreported from a while back, James Scarborough sent Le Soucoupe 8B at Cresciano.
Alison Wong reports that last SaturdayBryn Hosking sent Sleepy Hollow V12 and Alison herself did Cave Girl V8/9.
Alison Wong has sent Thomas Willenberg's Hollow Mountain Cave problem Annagramma V10. Surely this is one of the hardest sends by an Aussie woman!
Ben Cossey has been bouldering particularly well sending his first V11's over April - Dead Cant Dance, When We Were Kings and Mad Max. Ben also did Between Fear and Desire V10 at Mt Arapiles. Kim Robinson has sent Dead Heat V11.
James Kassay has now also completed both sections of the Cave with his send on Friday of Under Siege V14. Thats 2 V14's and a 13 in a week for James!
Sharik Walker has climbed the entire Hollow Mountain Cave mega-project in just 2 sections with his send the other day of the second half known as Cave Rave V13/14 (Last year Sharik did the first half as Under Siege V14).
The other James, James Kassay has started the Easter Grampians bash with blazing ascents of Cave Rave V13/14and Eve Reve V13/14 in the Hollow Mountain Cave and Lost For Life V12 at the Citadel.
James Scarborough has continued to send at Magic Wood with Die unendliche Gesichte Part 1 8B+ (5 days). With this ascent James is the first Australian to boulder 8B+/V14 outside of Australia!
James Scarborough has returned to Switzerland and in the course of a week at Magic Wood sent a host of 8A's and the odd 8A+ and Massive Attack 8B (2 days) and Voigas 8B (1 day).
James Scarborough has continued his Swiss jaunt with a 2 day ascent of Dreamtime standing start 8A+ and a 7C+ flash at Cresciano.
Duncan Brown sent Snoop Doggy Dog V10 and Chris Webb repeated Little Bow Wow and downgraded it from V10 to V9. Also check out : www.geocities.com/canberragranite for info, news and pics of bouldering around Canberra.
James Scarborough started his European trip with a bit of a flurry in Fontainebleau where on his second shot he did an un-named 7C+ at 95.2, Berezina-Carnage combo 7C+ and Berezina 7C at Bas Cuvier. Fleeing the ever-present rain of the forest saw James head to Switzerland where on his first day he flashed a 7C+ at Cresciano. More to come ...
Telstra Broadband's The Crunch TV (www.thecrunch.tv) is broadcasting EOS II as part of a great bouldering feature. The site is free until the end of March so be quick! Go to the Pep Talk section and have a look ...
Alison Wong has recently returned from a trip to the US. Sticky reports that Alison had a very successful trip doing some of the classic test pieces including Knobs V7, Smooth Chicken V7 and Little Country Girl V7. Sticky (NZ) was on the road for 7 months and his highlights included Alta (since broken foot hold) 7c+, Berezina-Carnage 7c+, Carzina 7c+ at Fontainbleau, Polish Pimp 8a, Strength like Spinach 7c+, and another 7c+ at Siurana and Tois Maunets V11, Swordfish Trombone V11, Soul Slinger V10, Enter the Dragon V10, Evilution (to the lip) V10, Toxic Avenger V10, Low Rider V10 at Bishop.
There has been quite a bit of action over the Christmas - New Year period with the Grampians (despite the heat) getting a few visitors. Nathan Hoette took some time off from climbing to send Cave Bitch V12, When we Were Kings V11 and The Cop that Couldn't Make it V9. Young gun Chris Webb (ACT) has been firing with flash's of Cave Man V9, Amniotic World V9 and X-treme Cool V9. Chris also sent Ogre Thumb V9/10 traverse, Extended World V10, Butthole Surfer V9 and Raceater V9 traverse. Steve Pollard (SA) has been sending as well with Butthole Surfer V9 Annagramma V9 and Cave Man V9.
There has been a few rumours about what has been going on down in Tassie in recent times so for the record this is some of it - Tyson Atwell (US) has opened a fantastic steep line through the Devils Kitchen at Oatlands calling it The Vanishing Point and grading it V14. Sam Edwards has also opened a new V13 in the Funky Town Cave also at Oatlands. Both ascents took place a few months back. The great summer conditions you can get in Tassie have seen a few mainlanders make the trip this summer with James Kassay's being notable with ascents of The Antichrist V10 and The Darkside V10.
James Kassay has made a quick ascent of Mad Max V11 (3 shots) and in the cave sent the popular testpiece Sleepy Hollow V12 and finished with Annagramma V9. On a flying trip to the US to compete James also had time to hit Bishop where he did Acid Wash V10 and a host of other classics. Partner in crime Bryn Hosking has been sending as well with Butthole Surfer V9, Extended World V10 and Cave Man V9. Chris Ellis rounded off his Gramps trip in early November by sending Butthole Surfer V9 and Da-Lai Lahmung V9. In Tassie (where its not so hot) at Oatlands Crell has sent The Darkside V10.
Chris Webb has made the 2nd ascent of Fundermentals V10 at P Creek and a while ago at the Villas he did Pauls Present V10.
Kyle Dunsire has written a great little article on compound grading and proved once and for all that 1 + 1 = 3. To find out how go to the grades page here.
You can purchase an AustralianBouldering.Com t-shirt now from UncarvedBlock in time for Christmas and help to support the AustralianBouldering.Com Grants Program. It's only $34.95 and all the profits go to the Program. Go to the t-shirt page for more details ...
AB.C Bouldering Grants recipients
The inaugural AB.C Bouldering Grants recipients have been announced and all 4 valid applications received funding totalling $1,300. Go to the recipients page for details.
Campbell Godfrey has repeated Trident V11 at Oatlands for its 4th ascent. Campbell says "after lots of spinning flying and sliding and swearing i stuck the finish sideways part upside down dyno in a typical ugly fashion."
Chris Ellis has continued sending in the gramps with quick ascents of X-treme Cool V9 on Saturday (Chris thought V8) and Dead Cant Dance V11 on Sunday. Duncan Brown is also visiting and has made the 2nd ascent of Ben Heason's Cave Heart V11 a link up of X-treme Cool (8 or 9) into Desire V8?
Tassie boys Sam Edwards and Chris Ellis had a big day out recently with Sam getting the third ascent overall and 1st Australian ascent of Loskot's Lost for Life V12 and that afternoon sending Dead Heat V11. Chris matched Sam by sending Mad Max V12 and Killer Dwarf V11 and to round off the day he also did Cave Man V9/10. Chris thought that Mad Max was at most V11. The week before Chris did Gobsmacker V11 which he thought was V10.
Duncan Brown reports that the other day (last tues) Chris Webb did savage V8 at the Villas in a couple of shots then last thurs both Chris and myself sent an unnamed V10 roof at Wingecarabee (just north of goulburn). I also did a font stlye V7 slopey arete. Also a couple of weeks ago I did the 2nd ascent of 'The Reactor', a V9 dyno at the Power Plant, Blue Mtns in a couple of shots and Chris did 'Snoop Doggy Dog' V10 at Dog Rock, North Black. Chris's ascents are pretty crazy considering that they are all fairly powerful, dynamic problems and he has a finger injury and has to climb statically to avoid hurting it again!
Gerard Bergmann (GR) reports that he "did a project at campsite boulders - sit start in cave then very high on two finger pockets up a steep wall over a big drop - it is located 4 metres right of 'Butthole Surfer'. I have called it Scorpion King and is about 8b. A very nice line and very dynamic."
This problem had been attempted by Loskot and Lamprecht during there 1999 stay. Stay tuned for more news from Gerard.
James Kassay has repeated Gobsmacker V11 in 3 shots and Gripmaster V10.
Jon Fullwood (UK) reports that he put up a new problem at the Wing Cave that starts at the bottom of Groove Terminator V10/11 then traverses right and finishes up Flapping Around V3. It's got a kneebar, a toehook, a heelhook and a very nice sloper. He called it Sheffield Steel and it goes at V10/11. Also he reports that he repeated Mr Winston V10 at the Balkans the other day and thought that it was very good.
Voodoo People V10 at Fox Cave received only it's 3rd and 4th ascents on the same day, last Wednesday. Returning from injury Simon McDonald managed to just pip Chris Ellis to the send and with Simon now bouldering "full-time" it is a promising sign of things to come.
Getting an early start to beat the heat James Scarborough (the recent national bouldering champion - stay tuned for a report from Cameron Barrie) linked the business end of the sit-start Fight Club V10 across the small roof into the standing start Hi Sylv V7 to produce the classic Tyler Durdan V12 at The Den. James asks that although the large slot in the middle that links the two problems together, seeps, that people don't try and seal or glue it. James suggests that this "natural" hold which resulted from the removal of a bit of foliage some years ago (not by James) can be dried sufficiently with chalk just prior trying the problem.
Matt Tait (NZ) reports that Paul Westwood has added a V14? left hand sit-start into Groove Terminator at the Wind Cave. Groove Terminator itself was repeated by Jon Fullwood (UK) and Aaron Liu suggesting a grade of V10/11 for the problem and it is downgraded accordingly.
Matt Tait (NZ) reports that over the winter he repeated Abacus (standing start) V10 at Crumbly, Agent Orange (with the glued hold) V10 at Fox Cave, Silent Bob V10 (with a new sequence) at Sissy Crag and C.O.A.T. V11 at the Balkans (suggesting V9 for them both), closed two open projects at The Den called Burn V11 (sit start to Romper Stomper V9) and Angel of Pain V9, repeated Contact V12 and Paul's Present V10 at The Villas, Groove Terminator V11 at the Wind Cave, Love Gun V10 at Alford's Point and The Vineyard V10 at the Balkans.
Matt also reports that Paul Westwood repeated Agent Orange with the glued hold V10 and without it V12, Andrew Bognar repeated Mushi Brain V11.
Gerard Bergmann of Stuttgart has been ripping it up around Australia over the last month. In Sydney so far he has sent Contact V12, Mushi Brain V11, L'Homme Obu V11, Wooly Jumper V10 in 2 shots, Chaos and Disorder V10, Abacus Standing Start V10 and Steve Austin V10. In the Grampians Gerard has done Mad Max V12, When We Were Kings V11, Dead Cant Dance V11, Extended World V10, Butthole Surfer V9, Cave Man V9, Krusti V9 and X-treme Cool V9
4X in the Mountains has been the place to be seen over the last week. Last Wednesday both Sharik Walker and Phil Sage sent Myology V12 and today Chris Ellis did Garths Arete V11. Back in Sydney on Sunday Chris did Mr Winston V10 (2nd shot) at the Trenches. Phil also did Vampire Dagger V11 at Armidale recently.
The AustralianBouldering.Com Grants Program is off and running and we have now received our first Partner (Uncarved Block -Gold level) and applicant. We'll have a flyer out soon so get behind the program everyone either as an applicant or partner. The deadline for the first round of funding is October 31st!
As reported on 8a.nu's scorecard system Nathan Hoette repeated The Antichrist V11 at Oatlands.
Chris Ellis took the challenge and today sent only the third ascent of the much tried Agent Orange V12 at Fox Cave. This was Chris' first V12 and to celebrate he also managed the 2nd ascent of the Grimacing V9, commenting that it felt harder than most of Sydney's V10's ...
The Victorian trio of Alison Wong, Bryn Hosking and James Kassey were in Adelaide for the weekend. 17 year old James Kassay over 2 days sent TAO V12 and flashed Cocktoe V9/10. Bryn Hosking also did Cocktoe.
The Den, a Dave/Mike Kellermann and Tim O'Neill area in Oxford Falls, finally seems to be getting some traffic so for the record the notable problems already done are Fight Club V10, Romper Stomper V9, Kyle's Rule V6 and Hi Sylv V7. While the first two moves of Romper Stomper sitdown were done they were never linked into the rest and it is an open project at about V11 or 12? James Scarborough grabbed the second ascent of Fight Club V10. Stay tuned for a topo ...
Short and sweet but Aaron Liu repeated Exit Wounds V10 at The Villas.
James Scarborough added a new dyno called Pubic Terrorist V10.
Also unreported from a few weeks ago was both Chris Ellis' and James Scarborough's super fast (ie. just a handful of shots) repeats of Hairy Joe's Banana Shack V11 at the Villas.
Rob Saunders has established Queensland's hardest boulder problem with Antiquity V10 at an area just outside of Brisbane. The problem took Rob about 9 days to open and culminates with one of Rob's trademark notorious mantles.
Unreported from a few weeks ago, Chris "Crell" Ellis sent Mushi Brain V11 at Crumbly. This is Crell's 8th V11 and while he has 20 V10's under his belt as well he is still yet to send a V12 ...
Ben Thorp and visitting Brit, Jon Fullwood have been ripping it up in Sydney in recent times. On Saturday Ben made the third ascent of Abacus V12 at Crumbly after 4 days work. Ben described Abacus as funky and powerful and solid for the grade. Jon made fast ascents of Silent Bob V10 at Sissy and Chaos and Disorder V10 at Crumbly.
Trevor Pearce completed the 4th ascent of Klem Loskot's Hot Chocolate at the Bachelor Pad on Sunday. Trev thought the problem was at least V10 a view shared by all who have tried or completed the problem. Trev now joins Sharik in ticking all of the problems V8 and above at the Pad - that's 11 in total!
Over the last few weeks, in the Grampians Ben Heason (UK) has repeated Cave Rave via Sam Edwards's variant (which he thought was V12) and re-first ascented (without the kneebar) Caved Out V11 (formally known as Embryonic World V11) and added Cave Heart V11 (X-Treme Cool V9/10 into Desire V8). Ben also repeated Dead Heat V11,Gripmaster V10, Butthole Surfer V9/10, Papparazzi Extension V9 and Iceberg V9.
James Scarborough grabbed only the 3rd ascent (unreported from a while ago was Joe Hoggson's 2nd ascent) of Live To A New Bet V11 at the Brothel feeling that it was harder than Contact V12 so it's upgraded to V12 for now ...
Half way through his 10 day visit to Sydney and Adelaide's Sharik Walker has sent a host of hard problems. Most notably he flashed Bowels of the Devil V10? at Sissy (using a different foothold to the original problem), sent L'homme Obu V11 at the Balkans and in ridiculous heat sent Contact V12 at the Villas. At Sissy Chris Ellis also flashed Bowels of the Devil V10? (using the same sequence as Sharik) and repeated Silent Bob V10. Al Price repeated Exit Wounds V10 at the Villa's.
Ben Thorp has continued to send adding Jug Thug V10 at Nowra and L'Homme Obu V11 at the Balkans to his collection. Chris Ellis also did Sista Soulja V10, John Fullwood did Jug Thug and James Scarborough added Mr Winston V10 to the Balkans.
Visitting Brit, Jon Fullwood has been quietly ticking his way through lots of Australia's classic hard problems. So far on his extended stay he's managed in the Grampians; Annagramma V9/10, Amniotic World V9, X-treme Cool V9/10, Caveman V9/10, Gastonia V9, Ogrethumb V9/10 and Crusty V9/10 and in Sydney he's managed; American Siege V10, Rocket Man V9, Paul's Present V10 and Mushi Brain V11.
Ben Thorp also repeated American Siege V10 and Rocket Man V9 at the Balkans and Sista Soulja the original non heel-hook way at V10 at Sissy Crag. Saxon Johns repeated Re-detonated the Roof Mix V10 at Sissy Crag, Paul's Present V10 and (possibly only the second ascent of) Exit Wounds V10 at the Villas. Chris Ellis grabbed only the 3rd ascent of the superb Bianca's Boobies V11 and repeated The Vineyard V10 both at the Balkans.
Unreported from a while ago, Tasmanian Ben Thorp also repeated Contact V12 at the Villas.
James Elliott has grabbed a repeat of Love Gun V10 at Alford's Point. Ben Thorp may have opened a new problem at Sissy Crag - he writes "It starts at the back of the cave below Sista Soulja, comes out along a rib of rock then up Sista. It's a pretty cool problem with Krusti-like crimpers along the rib, funky footwork to control the swing around the lip and then all the fun of the big Sista lock move at the end. It's probably easier than Sista though since you have good heelhooks the whole way, I reckon about V9. If it really is new I want to call it "Vietnamese Porn". Ben also repeated Matt Wrigley's Redetonated the Roof Mix which he believes to be at most V10.
Trevor Pearce completed the 3rd ascent of Klem Loskot's Mad Ball sd V13 at the Bachelor Pad last weekend. Trev used a different sequence to Klem and Sharik (which he believes is easier) but comments that the problem is still harder than TAO and Butchers (both V12).
Duncan Brown has provided the basics on North Black.I first found North Black in 1999 shortly after starting climbing but believing everything to be too hard it was left alone until I returned with my brother Jarvis, Ky Wittich and Chris Webb in early 2000. That year saw us develop most of the problems in two areas: the Campground and the Hill, leaving pretty much only the hardest lines undone. Some of the most notable asscents of that year were Leeson Roses 'Percival the Fiesty Mouse' V8, my 'The Mojo Connection' V7 and Ky's establishment of the desperate 'Bumknut' V5??? (which remained unrepeated despite many strong attempts until Elmar Jerg managed it in June,2002). During that time many other classic hard lines were cleaned but awaited (and some still await) someone strong enough to send them. At the end of 2000 some new keen developers joined in, most notably Andrew Bull & George Fieg. Over the next year or so they cleaned up numerous unfinished projects including Andrew's spectacular 'Nob Jockey' V8, as well as finding and developing several new areas just down the road such as Dog Rock, Wombat Rock, the Asteroid and a few unnamed areas, all of which contain dozens of beautiful granite problems of all styles and grades. The last year has also seen visits from some of our strong northern cousins with 'Sticky' Dale repeating almost every problem V9 and over in a single weekend and Zac Vertrees snagging the first ascent of one of the most amazing lines in the area 'Zacs Arete'(aka'the Nothing') V9. North Black is situated in the mountains about 30kms south of the town of Bungendore which is just east of Canberra (you will find it on most road maps). It is an amazing setting with granite boulders of all sizes scattered throughout the forested hills. This is a place with something for everyone; slabs through to super steep, easy as they come through to desperate unfinished projects with plenty of everything else in between with most of the problems being in the below V3 bracket. It is also one of the few places where you can spend all day putting up new problems, so bring a brush! Unfortunately topos dont exist yet but if you are going to make the trek down email Duncan at [email protected] and he will point you in the right direction.
Sharik Walker has linked Easy Does It V4 into Sleepy Hollow V12 in the Hollow Mountain Cave to produce Amazing Sounds V12. Alison Wong has also added another link-up with Easy Does It into Aphrodite to give DesireV8.
Saxon Johns made a flying visit to Armidale and repeated Vampire Dagger V11.
Kim Robinson has repeated Sam Edwards's Darkside V11 at Oatlands.
Some action in the Grampians over the month of June with a number of Victorian crew sending in the Hollow Mountain Cave. James Kassay has done Ogre Thumb V9/10 and Body Eater V9. Bryn Hosking has also been active with ascents of Amniotic World V9 and Body Eater V9. Alison Wong has opened a new problem in the Cave called Aphrodite V7. It starts at the end of Easy Does It V4 and finishes on a good hold a couple of feet past its junction with Sleepy Hollow Alison has also done Hot Henry V8 at Loopy's. Duncan Brown from the Blue Mountains has done Booges 9 at Andersons (Problem No 44 on the topo) and X-treme Cool V9/10.
Nzer Phil Sage "has been developing a new bouldering area in the Blue Mountains with James Scarborough. The area is known as the Power Plant (not just a clever name!). So far, Phil has put up 3 V8s and a V9/10 called Sublimate - a really cool problem that, from a sit start, climbs a bulging wall with the crux being a long move of a big slopey pinch. Phil has also been visiting Tarana, a granite area 35 mins behind the Blueys. The area is renowned for its multi pitch slab climbing but near the access track Phil and company found lots and lots of granite boulders on a plateau above the slabs. So far, a devoted crew have added a bunch of v6s and v7s, a v8 called Alice in Wonderland and a v9 called Recurve." Sourced from Powerband. From a little way back is the news that Garth Miller repeated Myology V12 in 2 shots. Thanks to www.climbing.com.aufor that news.
There's been some "discussion" over the suggested grade by AB.C of Sharik Walker's Under Siege V14. AB.C's reasoning is as follows ... although there is a good knee-bar rest after X-treme Cool V9/10 the link-up is believed by everyone who's tried it to be harder than Klem Loskot's and Fred Nicole's original second half of the HMC link-up which stands alone as Cave Rave/Eve Rave V13/14 (Cave Man V9/10 + Dead Can't Dance V11 although an easier variant now exists).
James Scarborough has added the hardest graded problem at Armidale with his first ascent of a roof problem called Gandalf the Grey V13. It took James many days over many separate trips and he feels it is the hardest thing he has ever climbed!
The Sydney Bouldering season is here and this is the first winter with the NEW Sydney Bouldering guide!! The cold and windy weather with its low humidity, means the sandstone is super sticky, and all those problems that you thought were too hard during the greasy Summer months are suddenly a piece of cake. Add to this the short days and the Antarctic Blue Mountains winter experience, and its not hard to see why bouldering in Sydney is the activity of choice for local climbers.
To celebrate the arrival of The Season, Sydney Bouldering will be on special for just $29.95. Already the feedback for the book has been fantastic many people have discovered the joys of local bouldering for the first time, long-time boulderers have found a wealth of new areas and problems, and others are too busy laughing at the cartoons to even bother leaving the house.
So get along to your favourite retailer and purchase a copy or get it online through www.uncarvedblock.com.au
- Peter Balint
Sharik Walker has finally linked the first half of the Hollow Mountain Cave. Starting at X-treme Cool V9/10 and finishing up Sleepy Hollow V12 to create Under Siege. The 34 move problem took 12 days of work and lots of days falling off on the last few moves. Not unlike Matt Wrigley and his Pretty Hate Machine V14, Sharik is not overly keen to grade the problem but for most there can be little doubt that it is also V14.
Chris Ellis is back in Oz and has already started sending with the 5th ascent of Dead Heat V11 at the Ground Control Caves.
James Elliott grabbed a first ascent at Queens Park by starting right of the Contender V10 and traversing left on small holds to finish on the last move of the Contender. Blue Blood Contention took James about 2 hours and while he declined to grade it, it was suggested to be in the V10 range.
Also, Al Price made a quick visit to the Villas and grabbed only the 3rd topped-out ascent of Paul's Present V10.
Ben Heason has been completing a few problems in Sydney in recent times including Mushi Brain V11 and Chaos and Disorder V10 at Crumbly and Wooly Jumper V10 at the Balkans
Trevor Pearce bouldered the 2nd ascent of Butchers V12 at the Bachelor Pad last weekend.
North QLD's hardest problem was sent on Saturday by Townsville local developer Madoc Sheehan: Best in Tension V8 is a stunning highball arete in the Upper Terrace. Brisbanite Rob Saunders also added The incred-eyeball mantle V7 out the left of the eyeball in the Upper terrace and Norwegian visitor John sent the sitstart to Screamer to create the classic Norwegian Way V7 at the Embankment.
Steve Pollard bouldered the 4th ascent of Kid Indestructible at the Bachelor Pad today - the grade has now settled at V9 with an easier sequence being used. Former South Australian Matt Adams has sent Le Loup Magnifique 8a/V11 at Farsta Strand and Sebulla 7c+/V10 at Vastervik both in Sweden.
James Scarborough added a harder finish to Mushi Brain V11 at Crumbly by finishing up the last 2 moves of Abacus V12 to produce Phlegm. James felt that it was probably just a grade harder than Mushi Brain so V12 it is. Also at Crumbly, Al Price sent Chaos and Disorder V10.
Chris Ellis has been quietly ticking his way through all of Sweden's hardest problems and establishing some of his own. In the past 2 months his tick list is Kraft 8A (V11), Street Fame 8A (V11) first ascent, Verve 7C+ (V10), Maestro 8A (V10), A day without rain 7C+ (V10), Nikita 7c+ (V10) flash (probably easier), Titti Twister 7C+ (V10), Pinball 7C+ (V10), Sebulba 7C+ (V10), Scorecard 7C+ (V10) flash (probably easier), Rythmn 7C+ (V10), Tant Bent 7C+ (V10), Stick 7C+ (V10) flash, MSKUO 7C+ (V10), Blunts an Chrome 7C+ (V10) first ascent. Count it, that's 2 V11's and 13 V10's!!!!!
Visiting Frenchie Sylvain Langris nabbed the 3rd ascent (after the broken hold) of the Crumbly classic Chaos and Disorder V10.
More Hollow Mountain Cave action with Sharik Walker repeating Extended World V10 and Ben Heason(UK) grabbing the 2nd ascent of Sam Edwards Dead Cant Dance Variant V10. On the way back to Adelaide Sharik stopped off at Mt Arapiles for a quick send of the Nick Sutter classic Between Fear and Desire V10.
The arrival of some early winter weather signalled the beginning of the Sydney season with Saxon Johns repeating L'homme Obu V11, James Scarborough grabbing only the 3rd ascent of Woolly Jumper V10 (both at the Balkans) and visiting Frenchman Sylvain Langris nabbing only the 4th ascent of Crumbly's classic Mushi Brain V11.
Yesterday, in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Ben Heason (UK) repeated Annagramma thinking it was a tad harder than Caveman but still only V9. He also managed Extended World V10 and Viva Resistance V11 (using a painful knee-bar for about a minute along the way). He also climbed a new problem Embryonic World along the lip of the cave that starts up Extended World V10 and then drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up Gastonia V8. He commented that it seemed a touch harder than Viva Resistance V11.
Sam Edwards has repeated Dead Cant Dance and Cave Rave by avoiding the DCD crux (ie. traversing across the lip to the right to the start of Rave Heart V8 and then finishing up it) and suggested grades of V10 and V11/12 respectively. These grades are 2 less than their currently publicized grades! Both Eve Reve and Pretty Hate Machine could also be repeated using this variation and thus could be downgraded by any repeat ascentionists (assuming they use the new variation that is). With this new variation (and the new sequence for Sleepy Hollow) this means that the entire cave link-up now stands at X-Treme Cool V9/10 + Sleepy Hollow V12 + Cave Rave variant V11/12 so that doesn't sound soooo bad ... right?
Sharik Walker's new V12 at the Pad is known as Butchers and is a little harder than TAO. Unreported from last week were Steve Pollards ascents of Twist and Shout V9 and Benelli's Extension V9. Mick Wells also did Benelli's Extension before departing for NZ.
Andy Beckworth and his excellent site The Boulder Lounge has joined forces with AustralianBouldering.Com. So continue to send all your news, photos, suggestions and criticisms etc to the us at [email protected] and we'll continue to provide you all with an un-biased, up-to-date view of the bouldering scene here in Australia.
Yesterday the Bachelor Pad saw a record number of boulderers (over a dozen) and also it's fair share of ticks consisting of Trevor Pearce's ascent of Tao V12 (second ascent)! Sharik Walker also did a variant start to Tao (Stalker V8 into midway of Tao) unnamed as yet, possible V12. Luke Geelen was on a roll with an ascent of Twist and Shout, tough V9 and Benelli's Extension V9 also the third ascent of Kid Indestrictible V10.
It appears that Matt Wrigley's repeat of Garth Miller's V13 at XXXX was a little incorrect. He seems to have done a different problem (not Garth's original V13 that is) and James Scarborough has grabbed the 2nd? ascent feeling it was V12 or V13. Matt also managed to repeat Steve Austin V10 and Bowels of the Devil V10 at Sissy Crag. As final gestures he added C.O.A.T. V11 at the Balkans and repeated Fluming V11 in Armidale.
Sam Edwards has continued to crank in the Gramps with the 4th ascent of Sleepy Hollow. Adelaide's Sharik Walker managed the 3rd ascent back in March and Richard "Sticky" Dale recently claimed the 5th. The grade has now settled at V12 after a new sequence was discovered. The other big news from Sam is his second ascent of Paul Westwood's Dick Snot in the Eureka area. Sam felt that it was at most V12 so it is downgraded to V12/13 until more repeats can say either way.
Sticky has not only repeated Sleepy Hollow but also Dead Cant Dance V12, Kings Cross V12, When we were Kings V11, Annagramma V10, the 1st ascent of Erotic Penguins V10 at the Citadel and a flash of X-treme Cool V9/10.
Sheffield traveller Ben Heason has also been busy with ascents of Amniotic World V9, X-treme Cool, Gastonia V9 and at Mt. Arapiles the V9 in the cave near Pilot Error. Unreported from a little way back were ascents of Butthole Surfer V9/10 by James Kassay and Toby Benham and Cave Man V9/10 also saw ascents from James and Luke Geelen. Also of interest is that according to James's 8a.nu scorecard he repeated Dead Cant Dance twice in his runners! Thanks to www.8a.nu/eng for some of the above news.