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The Villas Bouldering Guide

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Location: Park at the corner where Leonay St changes names to Rata Pl, Sutherland. Follow the big water pipes south for about 10m then make a right onto a faint track down some broken cliff lines (about 50m). Follow the short walls south again until you find a big horizontal cave with a headwall. This is it.

Problems: Only the most classic, obvious problems are described from left to right along the cliff (there are some other fun problems further to the right).

1. V2
Start with your feet at the same level as your hands and up to the jugs.

2. V6
Back wall is on then up the "crack".

3. Contact V12 (FA: Paul Westwood)
Start with your feet and hands in the roof, to the pinch, match it, punch out right, then up crimps to jugs.

4. Savage V9 (FA: Paul Westwood)
Back wall is on then spin your way out to a double toe-hook and up the crimps to the jug.
5. Project
Start right of Savage then through the shallow pockets to join the top-out of Paul's Present.

6. Paul's Present V10 (FA: Toni Lamprecht)
Out the roof to the big jug out right, long move, then traverse the lip left to a vague finishing hold over the bulge. A proper top-out is waiting ...